Sailing the Congo on a floating wreck - prelude

Kisangani, two weeks earlier - The scarce information I found about how to cross the DRC using the mighty river varied greatly.

Having heard both stories of a luxury boat with private rooms as well as horror-tales about a floating wreck that almost sank, today I finally got the chance to ask around in the port of Kisangani.

The illusion of a luxury boat quickly vanished. That type only traversed the rivers decades ago, before things fell apart. In Kisangani I found two cargo ships, preparing to start the journey. They are the MB Victoria (‘only ten days’) and state-owned Onatra, which is cheaper but is scheduled to take 16 days.

Immigration officials
Beach Dokolo gives me an unwelcome reception, with at least 5 people shouting at me, in an effort to examine my passport. Officers of the infamous DGM (immigration office) force me to register in several places. And, of course, I have to pay small bribes during this process. But once past the bureaucratic hurdles all seems well.

Ricky, with his big smile, golden chains and an I-phone, promised the Victoria would take me on board when it leaves around two weeks from now.

The only problem with these cargo barges: they have no rooms for passengers. Travelers sleep on deck, between the freight. This type of trip seems risky: it can rain fiercely these days. A good alternative might be to stay inside one of the many cars on board. That would provide a dry shelter, at least, and hopefully some comfort and an air of safety...  

Read part one of Arne's Congo River Blog tomorrow.