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1 July, 2011 - 09:16

The Victoria, I presume? - Part 9

Somewhere between Bumba and Lisala - After four days on the river we reached the port of Bumba. The MB Sowidaja will stay here for at least a week, and I am advised to find a faster boat.
Olive Kabila, the president’s wife, is in town for a political rally. Cars drive by with high speed, flashing their lights while the stunning Kabila waves to the people in her yellow dress.
Not everybody is happy. Due to the visit of ‘Madame’ the town comes to a standstill. Offloading the ship is postponed for another day. Dozens of porters hang around idly. Suddenly we hear that the MB Victoria, the ship that left me in Kisangani two weeks earlier, will leave tomorrow. From Lisala, 150 km away by road.
Through the dark rain forest
Although it is late, my friend Gaston offers to bring me to Lisala on his 450 euro Senko motorbike. Soon after we hit the road, the forest darkens. The motorbike is doing quite well with two men and a lot of luggage, though after some hours the headlight stops working.
Security seems ok here, but I am amazed by the fact that we can drive for 150 km without passing any village that has electricity. In each village we smell the charcoal stoves.
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As we reach the port the next morning, we find the MB Victoria just taking off. A canoe quickly takes me on board and tries to connect to the ship, but I am once again repudiated. The captain shouts from the bridge: ‘no, go back!’ Most people in the port have witnessed this scene.
I feel desperate, but the friendly captain of a cargo vessel saves the day. He is not allowed to take on passengers but if I promise not to reveal his company name he will take me on board. Three hours later, we leave for Mbandaka.